The landscape around Yallingup holds thousands of years of continuous human history. Ancient limestone ridges meet the Indian Ocean, and peppermint trees cast shadows over the coastal heath. Here, the Wadandi people have walked the land for more than 50,000 years.
Josh Whiteland is a Wadandi custodian who dedicates his life to sharing this deep connection with visitors. Through his cultural enterprise Koomal Dreaming, he offers a grounded perspective on Wadandi culture in Yallingup. His traditional name is Koomal, which translates to brushtail possum, a totem chosen by his elders.
Whiteland guides guests through the complex ecosystems of Western Australia. He introduces visitors to the six Noongar seasons, which dictate the rhythm of life, foraging, and movement across the region. According to Tourism Western Australia, Whiteland aims to communicate his profound spiritual connection to the land with people from across the globe.
His guided walks strip away the conventional tourist gaze. They replace it with an immersive education in identifying traditional medicinal plants and gathering native foods.
Echoes in the earth
The physical centrepiece for much of this cultural sharing is Ngilgi Cave. Located near Yallingup, the extensive limestone cavern system holds immense significance for the Wadandi and Bibbulmun people. Traditional lore tells the story of a battle between the good ocean spirit Ngilgi and the evil spirit Wolgine. Ngilgi ultimately drove Wolgine out, leaving the large cavern entrance that exists today.
Whiteland leads groups into the cool depths of the earth. Surrounded by intricate crystal formations, stalactites, and stalagmites, he shares stories of the Dreaming spirits that watch over the land.
The acoustic properties of the cave amplify the music he creates. He plays the didgeridoo deep within the cavern, allowing the low resonance to bounce off the limestone walls. This sensory experience connects listeners to the physical environment and the enduring culture that protects it.
The saltwater connection
The Wadandi are saltwater people. Their cultural practices reflect a close relationship with the ocean and the coastal resources of the Margaret River region. Whiteland grew up camping along the rivers and beaches, spearing salmon, and catching seasonal seafood.
He now shares these traditional techniques with guests, demonstrating traditional fire lighting and sustainable harvesting methods. The practice of foraging turns the coastal heath into a natural larder, where plants offer sustenance, shelter, and healing properties.
Cape to Cape Explorer Tours notes that understanding this unique environment requires engaging directly with Wadandi caretakers. Walking the land with a traditional custodian opens up a completely different view of the natural world. By sharing these ancient practices, Whiteland ensures that visitors do not simply pass through Yallingup. They leave with a deep appreciation for the oldest living culture on earth and the responsibility of walking softly on Wadandi country.
